The marriage of jazz and fragrance has always proven intoxicating: Nina Simone’s version of “My Baby Just Cares for?Me”, which underscored a 1986 advertisement for Chanel?No5, is only one of many successful unions. And when?Yves Saint Laurent launched Jazz, an aromatic, barber-shop scent, in 1988, it was a sensation. That same year, Bruce?Weber made his documentary Let’s Get Lost about trumpeter Chet Baker. The current formulation of Jazz is fairly?true to the original, with notes of patchouli, lavender and?geranium, but in the gender-neutral 2020s, it has become?unisex. After all, jazz is bohemian and free, even if?it?can be an unwelcome guest at Sunday brunch.

Diptyque’s Orphéon is complex, a little dark and a lot sexy

Basements, cocktails and trumpets make for an evocative mood board once again this year. Turnkey Beauty in California will launch an estate-endorsed Ella Fitzgerald fragrance this autumn, while Olphactory Candles continues to produce jazz-inspired candles, including Zulu Embers, which founder Brant Anderson says “creates the feeling of somewhere moody, candlelit and cosy” via patchouli, smoke and leather. This month, Diptyque launches some limited-edition items in?its?Orphéon collection – a tribute to the Parisian jazz club that the brand’s founders frequented in the 1960s. “Cedarwood symbolises the club’s tables, tonka bean mirrors the tobacco, and juniper berries provide the energy of the performances,” says Diptyque CEO Laurence Semichon. The result is complex, a little dark and a lot sexy. If you want an extended jam, light up?the brand’s small Narguilé and Genévrier candles, released as a boxed duo to go with Orphéon.

Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club, from ￡60 for 30ml EDT

Le Labo Baie Rose 26, ￡275 for 50ml EDP

These join Maison Margiela’s Replica Jazz Club – also big on vanilla and tobacco, and one of the most duped products on the market – in the growing pantheon of scents inspired by abstract compositions. Le Labo’s Baie Rose 26?has lively floral?aldehyde, musk and pink pepper. Nightclubbing by Celine?captures an after-dark ambience with notes of nicotine, tree moss and vanilla musk. Upstairs, produced by LA- and London-based brand Discothèque, is an ode to the upper lounge of Ronnie Scott’s in Soho. It’s one of the brand’s 10?dance-inspired candles and goes big on freesia and clove, while?Chez Castel – named after the Saint-Germain-des-Prés bo?te where Princess Margaret’s rumoured paramour Robin?Douglas-Home played jazz piano in the 1960s – is lemony?and charged with incense. “Hearing a song or smelling?a fragrance can bring you back to an emotionally charged moment,” says co-founder Jessie Willner.

Jazz is about big personalities as well as nightclub mythology. Billie Holiday was a fan of Coty Emeraude (now on eBay as a gorgeously packaged vintage item). German trumpeter Till Br?nner is loyal to Dior Eau Sauvage, while American bassist Esperanza Spalding is fond of Green Tara Incense because it reminds her of “a slightly sweaty man”. Sadly, Simone saw only a few cents of Chanel money. The mercurial star had already sold her royalty rights for a pittance.?