As a facialist, I am often asked to deliver an “undetectable” glow and lift. Increasingly my clients are seeking a natural alternative to injectables, which can leave the?face looking overdone or frozen. Exosomes are naturally occurring “vehicles” that carry proteins, lipids and nucleic acids between the cells. Think of them as tiny delivery vans transporting the goods needed to stimulate your skin’s healing – aesthetic surgeon Dr Costas Papageorgiou describes them as “messengers” released by skin cells.

Exosomes can potentially improve the?skin’s texture

Exosomes are versatile: most commonly they are applied topically in a cream or serum, but they are also injected and used to boost other treatments. They can be particularly effective when combined with microneedling, which allows them to penetrate deeper. Used alongside chemical peels or lasers, they can minimise post-procedure inflammation. “They can diffuse within the target area because of their size,” says Papageorgiou. I have noticed healthier skin, a more youthful glow, improved texture and reduced hyperpigmentation and fine lines among my clients.?

“Exosomes can potentially improve the skin’s texture through natural collagen synthesis and reduction in oxidative stress,” says Ivan Wall, a professor of regenerative medicine at the University of?Birmingham, “but it’s difficult to control what the exosomes contain.” The balance of proteins, lipids and?acids isn’t always optimum or the same.?

The best kind of exosomes are thought to be human-derived. But owing to the contamination risk, most exosomes used in skincare are plant-based. So when I learnt that Dr Timm Golueke, a Munich-based dermatologist, can extract exosomes – legally – from his clients’ own blood, my ears perked up. Exosomes, says Golueke, “shorten the time span” of a healing process that would ordinarily be done by the body over a longer period. His advanced cell plasma exosome treatment involves separating blood components to isolate a higher range of growth factors and exosomes. My 90ml of blood yielded 5-6ml of exosome-rich broth, which was injected into my face, neck and in and around my lips. After four weeks, I?noticed my acne scarring and sun damage diminish. Golueke recommends that?these results can be maintained with two-to-three-monthly treatments (€1,200).

Golueke says that using a patient’s own blood is safer than?plant-based sources. “I would have major reservations about injection of plant-based exosomes,” adds Wall. He has yet to come across any large-scale studies that suggest injecting or applying exosomes topically is either safe or efficacious. Still, “a topical application would be preferable. With injections, there is a risk of entering the blood stream.” They should be particularly avoided by those with melanoma or skin cancer. “Exosomes are claimed to contain growth factors – [these] promote cell growth,” says James Edgar, a cell biologist at the University of Cambridge. “Essentially, you’d be pouring petrol on the fire.”

For those who are hesitant about injectable exosomes, here are my top picks that offer a gentler introduction. Dr?Barbara Sturm’s Exoso-Metic Face Serum?(￡430 for 30ml) uses skin-saving ingredients including peptides to fight age spots and?expression lines. It plumps, firms and tackles pigmentation, leaving?skin with a radiant glow.?

Similarly, Skin Diligent’s Exosome Advanced Night Cream (￡83 for 50ml, left) uses exosomes to boost overnight repair and regeneration. And for skin junkies who want K-beauty glass skin without a bewildering 10-step routine, Neogen Dermalogy’s High R Exosome Cream?contains hyaluronic acid and resveratrol – a super-antioxidant – for a triple-threat attack on sagging skin. Peptides, vitamins and amino acids help fill in pesky gaps, leaving your complexion firmer, smoother and more radiant.?

If you still wish to put your trust in the hands of a professional but prefer a less invasive treatment, book Dermalogica’s Pro Exo Booster. This supercharged facial (from?￡330) combines a bacterial exosome serum with microneedling. With minimal downtime, it’s perfect before an?event or just for continuous skin health – your most radiant?“undetectable” lift yet.?