30 of the UK’s cosiest pubs
Roula Khalaf, Editor of the FT, selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter.
The Plimsoll
Finsbury Park, London

Locals wanted chefs Ed McIlroy and Jamie Allan (aka Four Legs) to take over this north London pub so much, they raised more than £75,000 to help them. Once a backstreet boozer for Arsenal fans, The Plimsoll is now home to natural wines, Salomon trainers and piri-piri quails. Sure, some of the food is fussy, but the dark wooden panelling and?mismatched stools remain. Their cheeseburger is probably the best in London. @the.plimsoll Rosanna Dodds, commissioning editor, HTSI
The Albion
Hastings

Losing friends from London to coastal towns is made easier when you get to spend?more time in cosy seaside pubs. The?Albion in Hastings’ Old?Town has become a particular favourite. After a?bracing cliffside walk, there’s little better than sinking your teeth into a hearty homemade pie with lashings of gravy. Cosiest of all are their regular live Irish?music sessions. albionhastings.com Clara Murray, data journalist?
The Sheep Heid Inn
Edinburgh
This is the perfect resting stop after the craggy ascent from Duddingston, a historic village in eastern Edinburgh, up to Arthur’s Seat. The oldest-known pub in Scotland, complete with its own skittles alley, it serves English ales and local brews on cask, as well as a good selection of single malts and cocktails. My favourite post-exam activity was to sit by the fire and release months of build-up with a stout – or two. The food is Scottish fare at its best: seafood and locally sourced meat, sometimes combined, as with its “surf and turf” steak and prawns. thesheepheidedinburgh.co.uk Paola Tamma, EU correspondent?
The T? Coch Inn
Morfa Nefyn, North Wales

The T? Coch Inn is tucked into the cliffs near Morfa Nefyn on the Ll?n Peninsula. Access via the beach at low tide, or walk along the cliffs and down a steep path. You might see seals. In the summer, spill out onto the pub’s beachside wall, and sit, feet dangling, looking out to sea. In winter, huddle inside and listen to the wind. tycoch.co.uk Peter?Foster, public policy editor?
The Lion & Lobster
Brighton
Just a block from Brighton seafront, the aptly lobster-pink exterior announces this pub as?something special. Inside it’s a labyrinth, every wall and shelf brimming with old photos, framed prints, artwork and?retro ephemera. Don’t come expecting minimalism – come for candlelight, conviviality and an open fire. Upstairs there’s the old-school grandeur and antique chairs of the Regency restaurant, and a tucked-away roof terrace open to the sunshine (or bracing air) of the seaside. thelionandlobster.co.uk Paul David Gould, FT Weekend Production Editor?
The Tanners Arms
Alnwick, Northumberland

Aside from the tree in the middle of its single room – a decorative ploy to give it a?Green Man feeling – and the occasional folk musician, the Tanners Arms is as simple as it gets: stone walls and floor, a?woodburner, local ales on draught. Yet?it’s?more than enough to keep a cold Northumbrian night?very pleasantly at bay?– at least until?last orders. 2 Hotspur Pl,?Alnwick Neville Hawcock, contributor
St Kew Inn
Bodmin, Cornwall
Download the iWalk Cornwall app and follow the path from Port Isaac to St Kew; there you will find this 15th-century inn. With flagged floors, original wooden beams?and a roaring open fire, it serves beer from wooden casks and has a lovely garden for warmer days. Expect excellent fresh crab, fish and chips and a good Sunday roast. Most importantly, dogs are welcome. stkewinn.co.uk Fiona Golfar, contributing editor, HTSI
The Blue Bell
York

York’s tiniest pub, The Blue Bell is a Fossgate gem established in 1798 and unchanged since 1903. With strict house rules – no swearing, children, large groups or phone calls – it’s a haven for quiet conversation and?cask ales. Televisions, games machines and music are also absent. It’s dubbed “a proper pub for proper pub?people”. Enjoy a locally brewed cask ale amid the Edwardian charm. bluebellyork.com Anjli Raval, management editor
Peter Kavanagh’s
Liverpool
The namesake landlord of this pub was allegedly also an artist, inventor and city councillor. His spirit has been channelled into a suitably quirky interior, one littered with knick-knacks and curios. There’s no kitchen here: hungry punters make do with?nuts and scratchings. Nor is it convenient to get to. But a night spent in one of “PK’s” many nooks is worth the 20-minute walk from Liverpool’s city centre.?2-6 Egerton St, Liverpool RD
The Blue Peter Inn
Polperro, Cornwall

The quintessential Cornish seaside pub. Located on the harbour of a fishing village, this 18th-century inn manages to be?both a?tourist hotspot and a community hub. It’s a year-round live-music venue loved by the locals, as well as a cosy spot for newcomers to enjoy locally sourced fish and chips. And if you’re feeling brave, check out its growing range of Cornish rums. thebluepeterinn.co.uk David Waller, UK?news editor?
The Boat Inn
Penalt, Monmouthshire
Nestled in a bend on the Welsh side of the Wye, The Boat Inn is a pub for all seasons. When it’s sunny, visitors can arrive by canoe and take in the view from the hillside gardens. In frost or rain, thick stone walls and log burners help keep drinkers warm and dry inside, where they can sit with dog-swaddled legs nursing a pint of Butty Bach, perhaps taking in one?of the monthly folk music sessions. What other pub allows you to park in one country and cross a bridge to take a drink in another? theboatinnpenalt.co.uk Dan?Stewart, deputy head of longform
Greyhound Inn
Pettistree,?Suffolk

The tasteful restoration of the Greyhound Inn in 2022 sent shivers of delight across the Suffolk countryside. The new owners have elegantly updated the 13th-century, Grade II-listed building’s low beams and roaring fires with contemporary colours and stylish finishing touches. Not only is?the food exquisite, the pub serves the?best Bloody Mary in the business. greyhoundpettistree.co.uk Laura Hughes, public policy correspondent?
The Woolpack Inn
Slad, Gloucestershire
This 300-year-old pub, with a vine-covered terrace, is set along one of Gloucestershire’s charming stone-walled roads, overlooking sweeping green farmland. It was the local of poet Laurie Lee, as well as being a hub for regulars on a Sunday afternoon. The food, made from local ingredients, is sophisticated yet unpretentious, with cottage pie and game appearing regularly on the menu. thewoolpackslad.com Jessica?Beresford, contributing editor, HTSI
The Crown Liquor Saloon
Belfast

Nothing says cosy like a pub snug. And with 10 elaborately carved wooden booths, The Crown Liquor Saloon in Belfast is peerless. Coloured tiles, stained-glass windows, the red granite bar and ornate ceiling (made – astonishingly – from papier-maché) make?a trip to this impeccably preserved Victorian gin palace count as culture (well, it is owned by the National Trust). Worth braving the tourists. Better yet, book a snug. 46 Great Victoria St, Belfast, Co Antrim Jude?Webber, Ireland correspondent
The Red Lion
Chenies, Buckinghamshire
You’ll find it just beyond the M25, where London’s sprawl gives way to?the Chiltern countryside. It’s a 16th-century coaching inn, across from the?village cricket pitch, with a warren of?rooms, some with clubby dark-green painted walls, some red bricks, and shelves of board games to settle in with. There’s a rotating list of craft beers and a menu with?pub classics and dishes that push the gastro-envelope. Head out the?back to walk the gorgeous Chess Valley.?redlionchenies.com Tim Auld, executive?editor, HTSI?
The Shakespeare
Margate

Most people land at Margate station and take a right towards the gleaming structure of Turner Contemporary and the lure of Peter’s Fish Factory. If visitors were to turn left instead, after a three-minute walk they would arrive at The Shakespeare, which has been lovingly restored by Fleet Architects with?soothing red interiors and wooden booths. Order from the extensive menu of?local beers and watch the sun set on Margate Main Sands. theshakespearemargate.co.uk Charlene Prempeh, contributing editor, HTSI
Ye Olde Trip To Jerusalem
Nottingham

Close your eyes in this pub, and you might?imagine Friar Tuck and Little John sharing a bawdy pewter tankard of the landlord’s finest foaming ale. Open your eyes and Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, built into the caves and tunnels in the soft?sandstone rock beneath Nottingham Castle, is a favourite with both?tourists and locals. Not many pubs can be said to be haunted by a galleon – one smothered in cobwebs and displayed above the bar – which is never cleaned, as?three people who disturbed it allegedly died mysteriously. It’s questionably the oldest pub in England and its dark cellars store some of the best-kept beers in the city: Greene King’s Level Head?Session IPA fits with today’s taste?for?lighter but flavoursome brews. greeneking.co.uk Simon Greaves, film and?video revise editor
The Harrow Inn
Steep, Hampshire
An exquisite time capsule of an English village pub: cash only, with children and loos strictly outside. Two tiny bars, one Tudor with an inglenook fireplace, the other a Victorian addition, provide a steady flow of sub-four per cent cask ales, cider and local wine. An excellent but limited menu is available, courtesy of a solid-fuel?Rayburn. theharrowinnsteep.co.uk Alan?Smith, head of visual and data?journalism
Canton Arms
Stockwell, London

The perfect pub to hunker down in with a?carafe of house red. A pub of two halves, the front section remains a traditional boozer serving gourmet toasties,?while the?moody dining room at the back offers sublime dishes – from Salt Marsh lamb shoulder to slow-cooked Guinness and miso beef cheeks. Popular among locals, but worth making the trip from further afield. cantonarms.com Madison Marriage, special investigations editor
The Cow
Notting Hill, London
Less pub, more saloon bar, this bustling drinking hole in west London has been serving for three decades. The pub was founded by Tom?Conran, son of Sir?Terence, and the walls?are decorated with a?mix?of English artworks – Caulfields and Hockneys among?them – vintage beer advertisements and neon lights. Make yourself comfy in a?seat by the fire downstairs, or head up to?the dining room?for a more intimate sojourn. Perfect for a Friday-night jolly.?Order a Guinness and a pint of prawns. thecowlondon.com Inès Cross, junior editor, HTSI
The Warren House Inn
Dartmoor, Devon

The perfect reward, after a tiring hike on Dartmoor, is a drink or a meal at the Warren House Inn, which claims to be the highest and the loneliest pub in southern England. Because it is situated at the top of a hill on a remote road, you can see it beckoning from a long way off on the moor. It is particularly atmospheric on a dark, wet evening. There is always a fire in the grate; they claim it has?burned continuously since 1845. The steak and ale pie is good, and best washed down with a pint of Otter, a Devon ale. warrenhouseinn.co.uk Gideon Rachman, chief foreign affairs commentator
Elephant & Castle
Wheathampstead, Hertfordshire
Tucked away down a rural Hertfordshire lane, the 18th-century, Grade II-listed Elephant &?Castle offers wood-burning stoves, local beers and low doorways to mind your head on. A delightfully welcome stop for cold and thirsty ramblers, cyclists and dog-walkers on a winter afternoon. theelephantandcastle.co.uk Ian Bott, graphic artist
The Flying Childers Inn
Stanton in Peak, Derbyshire

Dogs are so welcome here that the pub has?won an award for it – a handy accolade,?given the number of footpaths that?surround it. Landlady Sophie, who grew up on-site, took over the pub from her?parents, running it with her husband, Richard. Perched at the top of a?steep climb,?near Rowsley, The Flying Childers is?split between two rooms and is?the perfect sanctuary to ward off the winter?winds that?whip through the nearby?moorlands. This is the kind of establishment that gets?described as unspoilt and feels like something built by?a?set designer, in the best possible way.?It?serves an excellent stout as well. flyingchilderspub.co.uk Jo Ellison, editor, HTSI?
The Hardwick Inn
Chesterfield, Derbyshire
Situated in the park surrounding Elizabethan stately home Hardwick Hall, this inn is everything a cosy country pub should be. Inside its sandstone walls you’ll find the requisite roaring fires, simple hearty food and Old Peculier on draught. The beer?gardens overlooking the estate are delightful in summer but this is a pub best reached after a walk on a snowy winter’s evening. hardwickinn.co.uk Laurence Fletcher, deputy markets news editor
The Pot Still
Glasgow

Just as there’s a song for everybody, there’s a whisky for everybody, and your best chance of finding it will be in The Pot Still in Hope Street, Glasgow, the most convivial pub in Britain’s most convivial city. A central haven for drinking, talking and laughing, it?seems to stock every malt whisky worthy?of the name. And pies. Happy days. thepotstill.co.uk Andrew O’Hagan, author
The Anchor Tavern & Hub
Bute
This unpretentious, community-owned pub?on the Isle of Bute is nestled on the seafront of the fishing village of Port Bannatyne. It has been serving friendly locals, sailors – and dogs – since 2022. Rather than offering food, it encourages guests to order meals from nearby eateries?while sampling the fabled Scottish?hospitality. Come here for the weekly jam sessions (Thursdays) and to?taste the locally produced gins and ales. 33?Marine Rd, Port Bannatyne, Isle of Bute Ben?Marino, senior video journalist
The Queen’s Head
Newton, Cambridgeshire

When you pay a visit to this time capsule of?a freehouse 20 minutes’ drive south of Cambridge – preferably on a brisk winter afternoon after a good dog walk – turn left into the coddling warmth of the saloon. There you’ll find tables just a smidgen too small and real ale from Adnams in Suffolk poured straight from the cask. Ask the third-generation landlord Rob Short what colour the soup is today, and bathe in the glow as you dip your beef and horseradish sandwich in it. queensheadnewton.co.uk Alexander Tyndall, deputy chief subeditor, HTSI
The Brown Dog
Barnes, London
A welcoming independent gastropub in chocolate-box Barnes, south-west London, The Brown Dog has rustic decor and a skilful seasonal menu that privileges British produce (including a soul-warming Sunday roast). It has all the liquid essentials for whiling away winter: a cleverly curated, old-world-heavy wine list, on which Super?Tuscans sit alongside well-priced Sangiovese, a small but solid selection of craft taps, house-made ales and classic cocktails. You might spy a few famous faces here too; F1 legend David Coulthard is one?of the owners. thebrowndog.co.uk Niki Blasina, deputy editor, FT Globetrotter
Hole in T’ Wall
bowness-on-windermere, Cumbria
One of the cosiest and liveliest watering holes in Cumbria, this pub – which takes its?name from phonetic Northern speak – was originally exactly that: a teeny hole in?the brickwork where blacksmiths could order a pint on the job. Established in 1612,?it’s generally packed to the (low-beamed) ceiling rafters. As the oldest pub?in?Bowness, it has served Robinsons ale to all sorts of folk, including Charles Dickens. And in proper countryside tradition, it proudly takes no reservations. holeintwall.co.uk Grace Cook, contributor?
The Three Swans
frome, Somerset
Most of Frome’s treasures are found at the top of Catherine Hill, the town’s main shopping street, home to vintage boutiques, quirky cafés – and treacherous cobbles. Save yourself the climb and head to The Three Swans on King Street. One of the oldest pubs in Frome, it has mismatched chairs – some regal, some wooden – exposed beams and a stack of classic board games. You’ll find me in the corner eating their ham, egg and chips (£10). thethreeswans.com RD
Do you have a favourite cosy pub that you think we’ve forgotten? Let us know in the comments below…
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